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The
historical story behind
Irv's Burgers is a fascinating weave
of colorful stories. According to Mollie Zucker,
who owned the original stand Queensburger (1950)
(photo at left), from 1958-1973, the stand
served as a local for many Los Angeles
actors, both known and unknown; its devoted regulars
included John Cassavettes, Gena Rowlands, Sally
Marr (mother of comedian Lenny Bruce), and Shelly
Winters. Tucker Smith, the actor/dancer best known
for his role as Ice in West Side
Story, lived in the apartment building next
door and often brought the Sharks
and the Jets over between filming
on the sound stage. As Los Angeles rapidly developed
into the center of the 60s and early 70s burgeoning
music scene, one could often spot Jimi Hendrix
and Janis Joplin among the regulars. Linda Ronstadt
used the roadside stand as a backdrop for the
album art for one of her best-selling recordings
("Living in the USA", photo below).
Even then, whats now known as Irvs
Burgers had a reputation for great food; Mollie's
husband went to Fairfax Avenues legendary
Diamond Bakery every morning at 5 a.m. to get
fresh breads and purchased the prime meat for
the hamburgers at the now defunct Arrow Market,
the last of the independent neighborhood family
grocery stores.
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image to enlarge] |
Today,
Irvs Burgers is struggling to stay open
and remain at its original location. The stand
is owned by the Hongs, a Korean-American family
who invested their entire life's savings in buying
Irvs business from a former tenant of long-time
owner Irving Gendis. The Hongs are beloved by
scores of West Hollywood residents and businesses,
many of whom eat there daily. Sadly, the Hongs
five year lease has expired and they are currently
operating on a month to month agreement with their
new landlord. Currently, the buildings land
lease is held by Seltzer Commercial Real Estate
who plans to develop the corner lot and lease
the space to other operators. Peet's Coffee, a
major, albeit socially conscious, corporation,
has been in leasing negotiations with the Seltzers
for several months, but has not finalized their
deal due to local concerns that Irvs Burgers
could be destroyed and the Hongs displaced.
The loss of Irvs in West Hollywood would
be another blow to our fragile Los Angeles culture.
Destruction of this landmark would erase:
1) Another integral link to the Route 66 heritage
2) A classic post-World War II roadside stand
3) A genuine neighborhood eatery
4) The livelihood and future of a hardworking
family
In just a few visits to Irvs Burgers, one
realizes the value of this small business. The
Hongs know all of their customers by name and
many people stop by daily just to check in with
them and get the local news. Every customer is
recognized; each order out of the kitchen window
has a personalized, handwritten caricature on
a paper plate with a 'Just for You' caption
in Sonia's handwriting.
Thousands of neighbors and adjacent businesses
have written letters, made phone calls and signed
petitions to save this iconic burger stand. But
the future of Irvs Burgers is still unknown.
We urgently need your help and support. Weve
taken up the cause as great lovers of burgers,
Los Angeles street food and the American Dream.
Besides all of this, Irvs Burgers remains
the BEST burger and fries found in Los Angeles
today and it holds a place of honor among the
aficionados of Burger History.
For information on how
you can help, click
here.

by Vickie Burns-Sikora
November 19, 2004
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Irv's
Burgers is a prime example of the post-World
War II roadside stand that rose to prominence
along the nation's highways with the increase
in automobile travel. As was more often than not
the case, Irv's was originally paired with a service
station on the same lot, providing the automotive
tourist with food and gas in one easily accessible
location. The service station is no longer in
operation, but Irv's Burgers has remained a roadside
eatery since its inception in 1948. As part of
the late-40s/early 50s boom Irv's Burgers was
designed serve the motoring tourist that shaped
Los Angeles. Carey McWilliams notes, "Not
only did the tourists stimulate the later mass
migrations, but they left an imprint on the land."
(McWilliams, 1973, p. 147)
Fronting as it does the "Mother Road,"
Route 66, Irv's Burgers prominently participated
in and reflected the road culture of the period.
"The highway, which ran from Chicago to Santa
Monica, came to represent the romance of the open
road. Today, it still rekindles fond memories
of '57 Chevys and family summer vacations."
(Pierson, 2004, p. B1)
Basically intact structurally, it is one of the
few remaining roadside stands that once flourished
along the California stretch of the historic highway.
"Ramshackle hot dog and hamburger stands
that popped up in the years after World War II
evolved into the fast-food industry. A couple
of sheets of plywood, a stove and a natural affinity
for people were all someone needed to get started.
Year-round warm weather and a demand for cheap
food fast did the rest. Business boomed."
(Edds, 2004) As Route
66 lost its prominence as a national artery, the
focus of Irv's Burgers changed. Throughout its
seven-owner history, it became a haunt for actors
and film crews. Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, and
Jim Morrison sampled its burgers. Martin Sheen
and John Cassavetes sat at its stools. Linda Ronstadt
featured Irv's Burgers on the cover of her "Living
in the USA" album. Neighbors, looking for
a bit of nostalgia and good, low-priced food have
subsequently made Irv's home, but the tourist
was not lost. It was featured by Elliott Koretz
and Michael Nankin in their book Fantastic Dives
for its "combination of ... good food and
street life at your elbow-having a meal in the
thick of the action-that makes it so much fun."
(Koretz, 1982, p. 65)
Culturally, Irv's has become a vital center for
community life in a city where many residents
are single. An indication of its value to the
present inhabitants can be seen from the thousands
of signatures on petitions protesting its probable
destruction. Ironically the Pierson quote cited
early comes from an article about the rush to
preserve anything related to Route 66 by cities
lying to the east. Gerald Panter, who has photographed
nearly 200 of the freestanding roadside stands
over the past six years, notes that a third of
them have disappeared. Preservationists predict
the remainder will vanish within the next five
to ten years. (Edds, 2004)
In a GIS/GPS survey conducted under a grant from
the National Park Service, Design
Aid Architects found only three West Hollywood
sites deserving of recognition: the Formosa Café,
Barney's Beanery, and Irv's Burgers. It is imperative
that we protect and preserve the few remaining
sites we have from Los Angeles's formative years.
Nearly alone among the thousands that once dotted
the L.A. landscape, Irv's is historically and
archivally significant as an example of the pre-fast
food hamburger stand.
REFERENCES: Edds, Kimberly, Washington Post,
"LA Burger Stand Fights for Its 2004 Life,"
November 22. Koretz, Elliott and Michael Nankin,
Fantastic Dives: A Guide to LA's Best 1982
Hole-in-the-Wall Dining. Los Angeles: J.P.
Tarcher McWilliams, Carey, Southern California:
An Island on the Land. Salt 1973 Lake City:
Gibbs Smith. Pierson, David, Los Angeles Times,
"Get Your Kitsch on Route 66."

"Save
Irv's Burgers" on Route 66
Route
66 Facts and Trivia Current maps do not include
old Route 66. Route 66 is 2448 miles long. (about
4000 km) Route 66 was commissioned in 1926, picking
up as many as possible bits and pieces of existing
road. Route 66 crosses 8 states and 3 time zones.
Route 66 starts in Chicago, and ends in L.A. (Santa
Monica). Some people think driving it in the opposite
direction is historically wrong, but it's mainly
a lot harder as all available documentation goes
the "right" way. In 1926 only 800 miles
of Route 66 were paved. Only in 1937 Route 66
got paved end-to-end. You can only drive parts
of Route 66 these days... it has been replaced
by the interstate highways I-55, I-44, I-40, I-15
and I-10, but still a surprisingly high amount
of old road is waiting to be found by the more
adventurous traveler. Route 66 is also know as
"The Mother Road", "The Main Street
of America" and "The Will Rogers Highway".
During all of its life, Route 66 continued to
evolve, leaving many abandoned stretches of concrete,
still waiting to be found by the more adventurous
traveler. Route 66 was also the title of a TV
series playing from 1960 till 1964 Cyrus Stevens
Avery from Tulsa Oklahoma can be called the father
of Route 66 In 1985 Route 66 was officially decommissioned,
but for daily use it was replaced far earlier
by the Interstates.
California Historic Route 66 Association Preservation,
Promotion and Enjoyment of Route 66 The stretch
of Route 66 that passes through California extends
from the Colorado River (Topock), near Needles,
to the Pacific Ocean at Santa Monica Some 320
miles of Route 66 pass through California's deserts,
mountains, metropolitan areas and beach communities.
California's Route 66 is hard to beat as a travel
theme for your next vacation. A pathway to California's
history, cultural diversity, geology, geography
and architecture, Route 66 in California reflects
a significant part of our National Heritage.
Route 66 in California traverses 320 miles from
Needles to Santa Monica. For 214 of those miles,
from Needles to Cajon Summit, you are traveling
through the Mojave Desert. The wonder and beauty
of this region cannot be fully appreciated without
getting off the road and into the wilds. For those
of you who are truly adventurous, try exploring
the Mojave Desert on your next Route 66 road trip.
Santa Monica is the western terminus of Route
66. In 1926 when Route 66 was officially designated,
the road was identified from Chicago to Los Angeles.
In 1935 the road was extended from Sunset Blvd
(Cesar Chavez Av.) to Santa Monica Blvd. to Lincoln
and ended at... but that's another story, told
by Dan Harlow (see below). When the Pasadena Freeway
was completed a realignment of Route 66 took place
and later when the 10 Freeway was completed another
alignment was recognized. For a while Route 66
followed the Pasadena Freeway to the Hollywood
Freeway to Santa Monica Blvd., to Lincoln.
Evidence that Route 66 extends from Lincoln to
Ocean Avenue along Santa Monica Boulevard lies
firmly in the ground at Palisades Park. Here,
in 1952, a plaque was placed stating simply, "Will
Rogers Highway, dedicated 1952 to Will Rogers,
Humorist, World Traveler, Good Neighbor. This
Main Street of America, Highway 66 was the first
road he traveled in a career that led him straight
to the hearts of his countrymen." The plaque
was placed that summer as a caravan of vehicles
completed a tour of Route 66 sponsored by Warner
Brothers, Ford and the Main Street of America
Assoc. The tour began in Chicago and was carried
out as an honor to Will Rogers, promotion of the
soon to be released motion picture of his life
story, and recognition of Route 66. However unofficial
this landmark may be, it clearly represents the
spirit of Route 66 and its many contributions
to American culture. For those who have stood
before it and gazed into the blue horizon of the
Pacific Ocean, this marks the western terminus
of Route 66. Transportation officials and map
makers will tell you otherwise. The official end
of Route 66 is where it junctured with 101 highway
some ten blocks east and south of Ocean Avenue.
Had we rested with views of officialdom there
might be little reason to now raise the question.
When there were no other signs on Route 66, the
plaque at Palisades Park told of a very special
highway. If you want to see where Route 66 made
its last juncture with another major road, follow
the maps and turn south on Lincoln. If you want
to experience the spirit of 66, follow your heart
and keep driving west.
James
M. Conkle
Executive Director & Chairman of the Board
California Route 66 Preservation Foundation
P O Box 290066 | Phelan,
CA 92329-0066
760.617.3991 | Cell:
760.868.3320
Fax: 760.868.8614
email
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Scott Piotrowski
Director, 66 Productions
email
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